9th May 2015
For most of the day I wasn't in the best mood. The weather was crap, cloudy with some rain, and the last two days had really taken a toll on my body. I had aches and pains everywhere, and I wanted nothing more than to sit down in a comfy chair, put my feet up and do nothing all day. As my food supply was dwindling though, this was not an option unless I wanted to go without dinner. To make matters worse I hadn't looked at the map properly the day before, and I soon realised the nearest town with a store, Asuke, was a considerable distance away, 36kms to be precise.
I will let the pictures tell the first half of the day:
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The trail was flat and followed an offshoot of the Toyokawa river for a while |
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Someone, presumably with OCD, had arranged these rocks along the path... |
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...for several kilometres... |
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... |
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I, very hesitantly, ended up having to eat the squid I bought the other day, probably burning as many calories chewing on the darn thing as I took in eating it |
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I then went past this man made fly fishing pond |
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Up the overgrown path on Mt Hazugatake |
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And down the other side... |
On the way down from Mt Hazugatake around 2pm, it started raining, not too hard but enough that I had to put my wet weather gear on. The problem was it was still quite warm and I was sweating underneath it, so I just got wet from the inside out. Damned if you do, damned if you don't. I also was almost out of food and water, and I realised I still had another 20km along trails until I got to the store at Atsuke. So in order to avoid being completely miserable, I made an executive decision to abandon the trail and take the road to Atsuke. It was considerably shorter and it went past a stream so I got to refill my water and not die of thirst. Easy choice really. I told myself before setting off on this walk that I shouldn't take task of doing the whole trail too seriously, and so if I got faced with a situation in which I needed take a short cut in order to prevent me from being completely miserable, I would feel okay with doing so. So I took the easy way to Asuke:
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On this... |
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...instead of something like this |
As I came to a section with a village, I pulled
out my GPS to check how far I had left to the until the convenience store. I
was hungry and grumpy, and totally immersed in the task of figuring out exactly how far I had to go, when suddenly something big and white moved right in front of me, so unexpectedly that I literally took a leap back in fright. This is what I saw:
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Someone had tied their goat to this grassy slope so it could eat I guess |
I immediately burst out in laughter at my scaredy-cat reaction to a
goat tied to a side walk in rural Japan, whilst it just looked at me for a
moment with that blank expression farm animals often give, let out a short
bleat and then turn its head and proceeded eating again. It got more absurd
though. I went to give it a pat, and even managed to get my hand on its head,
when it turned around and head butted me in the thigh almost knocking me over. I chalked it up to one of those more bizzare experiences I have had on the trail, and gave it a wide berth as I went around it.
After another hour or so of walking I finally got to Asuke. It looked like quite a tourist town,
plenty of temples and stores selling souvenirs, but I was only interested in
one thing: FOOD. I got to the convenience store and absolutely pigged out on food. A bento box, tako-yaki, fried chicken milk, pastries, I had it all. There was also a supermarket a little ways down the street I could resupply at too.
After that pig out, I wandered down the main street which the trail followed looking for a spot to set up camp. There were a few potential spots I saw to set up my tent, but
none of them really appealed to me. I said to myself I should be ambitious and
find a better spot, because hey, it’s worked in the past. Big mistake. With great hope I kept walking, out the other side of Asuke, following the aptly named Asuke river:
But just as
it was getting dark, still not having found a spot, I was led into a forest that was not marked on my GPS. I
had to get out my torch to see the trail, which kept ascended and descended
sharply, often with a sheer drop on one side. It was long and nerve wracking,
and the claustrophobic feeling moving through a forest at night did not help
one bit:
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It felt like being in a scene from the Blair Witch Project |
By the time I got out I was a sweaty, dishevelled mess,
desperate to find somewhere, anywhere, to set my tent up. Luckily, a hundred metres
or so down the road I found a small space between some benches next to a river
big enough to accommodate me. I just have to remember to go left instead of
right if I get out of my tent to go to the toilet in the middle of the night
because there is a sheer drop into the river right beside me.
I just looked at my GPS and it says I did just over 40km today, my longest distance yet. At least I don't have to cook dinner tonight, I'm still full from the pig out I had at the convenience store. So I'm going straight to bed.
Distance: 40.4km
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